The PokerStars Open Main Event has attracted more players to Casinò di Campione than there are residents of the town of Campione itself. [Image: Shutterstock.com]

Fusion of influences

On the shores of Lake Lugano sits the quiet little town of Campione, an Italian enclave surrounded on all sides by the Swiss Canton of Ticino. Steeped in history and culture, its cobblestone streets ascend, descend, and wind around the Langobardish hill. Well-preserved frescoes and sculptures adorn the ancient churches. There is an artfulness and whimsy about the place.

There are cute little cafés and bars. There’s a pizzeria that serves sushi. There’s a Michelin Star restaurant. You are as likely to find fondue and raclette on menus as you are bruschetta and pasta. The currency is Swiss francs. The cars have Swiss license plates. There is a small football club in the town called AP Campionese, which plays in the Swiss 4th division. The 2,300 or so residents of Campione go about their daily lives enjoying the fusion of influences, Swiss politeness, and order mixed with Italian gusto and cuore.

Casinò di Campione, a degen’s wonderland nestled into the hill

There are also some financial benefits to Campione’s unique status. The residents do not pay any municipal charges and are exempt from paying the full Italian Value Added Tax. These subsidies are mostly made possible because of the revenue generated by the Casinò di Campione, a degen’s wonderland nestled into the hill, scratching the gambling itch for both Swiss and Italian punters who make the trip to the picturesque town.

Casino declares bankruptcy

Founded in 1917, Casinò di Campione has had its prosperous times but also its fair share of challenges. In 2007, on the eve of the worldwide financial collapse, the city spent $160m building a new ten-story home designed by renowned Swiss architect Mario Botta. This massive investment also coincided with the rise of online gambling.

If you eat too much caviar, you will get sick.”

Difficult years followed, and in 2018, the casino declared bankruptcy, prompting harsh criticism from the residents who believed that the city had failed to sufficiently diversify, growing far too dependent on what had once been easy money. Bernard Fournier, the town’s resident Michelin-starred chef, expressed his lack of surprise to a BBC reporter at the time. “If you eat too much caviar, you will get sick,” he said.

Cute food analogies aside, the consequences of the bankruptcy were profound for the economy of Campione, throwing 490 employees out of work. For a time, empty storefronts lined the main street and cuts were made to city services. Then came the COVID-19 pandemic, with Northern Italy being one of the worst affected areas. Pensioners saw their monthly stipend slashed, forcing some to turn to food banks for groceries.

The recovery

The recovery has been slow but steady for both the town and the casino, whose fortunes are intrinsically linked. Casinò di Campione re-opened on January 26, 2022, and in its first year back, it modestly surpassed targets, welcoming 220,000 players to the venue. 2023 was a boom year, and in September 2024, Flutter Entertainment’s Sisal and PokerStars brands sealed a deal to open an “always on” poker room at Italy’s Casinò di Campione.

“This is a further step forward in the development of the company’s activity, which will undoubtedly increase its visibility,” said Mario Venditti, Chairman of Casinò di Campione, at the time. The opportunity was felt on both sides, with Cedric Billot, Director of Live Event Operations at PokerStars, also seeing the potential:

“We look forward to kicking off the partnership with Campione and offering the best poker experience to our passionate Italian audience,” he said.

Fast-forward to March 2025, and that partnership has exploded out of the gate with a 2,423-runner field in the first-ever PokerStars Open. That’s more entrants than the population of the town. The champion of the inaugural main event will be crowned on Sunday night, and whoever wins will deservedly make headlines. However, the really big story for me is that of the quiet little town hosting the festivities and a community that has struggled and persevered through tough times, buoyed by what is sure to be an annual poker extravaganza.